Common Training Problems.
Every breed has its own specific
behaviors that trip owners up.
And Bull Terriers have there fare share of them.
I’ve compiled a list of the top issues I see new owners having trouble with in both adults and puppies.
And Bull Terriers have there fare share of them.
I’ve compiled a list of the top issues I see new owners having trouble with in both adults and puppies.
#10- Issues with Potty Training.
Bull Terrier's are STUBBORN!
Everything they are expected to do they will try to get out of doing it- that includes going potty outside.
It is not uncommon for Bullies to have some accidents in the house well into the age of 1 year.
Potty training is all about making your dog comfortable about going potty outside- and not in the house.
Think of it like this:
What if someone suddenly asked you to use the couch as the toilet and to NEVER use the toilet again?
The bathroom and the toilet are STILL available to you though.
Your going to feel the desire to use the toilet and not the couch huh?
You may even sneak off and use the toilet as often as you can.
Think of it like that for dogs as well. Except the house is the toilet- and the outside is the couch.
It just doesn't feel right until they are used to going outside to go to the bathroom. How do you create that? By making sure that a majority of every Poop and Pee is eliminated OUTSIDE instead of in the house, so your dog feels most comfortable going OUTSIDE-and not in. This is achieved simply by waiting and watching your dog like a hawk Taking them outside often and simply paying extremely close attention
When I fostered a 3 year old Female Bully (who was potty trained) she refused to go outside to go potty in the yard, even though it smelled of dog waste from my male Cesar- she would hold it until I brought her inside then attempt to sneak off to do her business. I would keep her leashed to me and take her outside every 30 minutes or every time she seemed slightly uncomfortable. And we would stand outside- for 2+ hours I would wait, she would lie in the grass and take a nap, we would walk round the block, play,etc before I would take her back into the house, offer her some water and wait for another 30 minutes then take her back out. I did this for a week- if I was busy she was kept in her crate and let out every hour. Within a week she was no longer going in the house but begging to go outside whenever she had to go potty Because it was simply a matter of re-conditioning her to feel comfortable about going OUTSIDE instead of in
In cold weather, expect to make even more trips.Don’t expect to sit and watch TV, talk on your phone, get on the internet. Expect to spend a week just staring at your dog and running them in and out.
Bull Terrier's are STUBBORN!
Everything they are expected to do they will try to get out of doing it- that includes going potty outside.
It is not uncommon for Bullies to have some accidents in the house well into the age of 1 year.
Potty training is all about making your dog comfortable about going potty outside- and not in the house.
Think of it like this:
What if someone suddenly asked you to use the couch as the toilet and to NEVER use the toilet again?
The bathroom and the toilet are STILL available to you though.
Your going to feel the desire to use the toilet and not the couch huh?
You may even sneak off and use the toilet as often as you can.
Think of it like that for dogs as well. Except the house is the toilet- and the outside is the couch.
It just doesn't feel right until they are used to going outside to go to the bathroom. How do you create that? By making sure that a majority of every Poop and Pee is eliminated OUTSIDE instead of in the house, so your dog feels most comfortable going OUTSIDE-and not in. This is achieved simply by waiting and watching your dog like a hawk Taking them outside often and simply paying extremely close attention
When I fostered a 3 year old Female Bully (who was potty trained) she refused to go outside to go potty in the yard, even though it smelled of dog waste from my male Cesar- she would hold it until I brought her inside then attempt to sneak off to do her business. I would keep her leashed to me and take her outside every 30 minutes or every time she seemed slightly uncomfortable. And we would stand outside- for 2+ hours I would wait, she would lie in the grass and take a nap, we would walk round the block, play,etc before I would take her back into the house, offer her some water and wait for another 30 minutes then take her back out. I did this for a week- if I was busy she was kept in her crate and let out every hour. Within a week she was no longer going in the house but begging to go outside whenever she had to go potty Because it was simply a matter of re-conditioning her to feel comfortable about going OUTSIDE instead of in
In cold weather, expect to make even more trips.Don’t expect to sit and watch TV, talk on your phone, get on the internet. Expect to spend a week just staring at your dog and running them in and out.
#9- Jumping Up
it is no secret Bull Terrier's LOVE people.
Bull Terriers enjoy showing people just how much they love them by
Jumping up on them and bouncing up and down like mad! Curbing a Bullies jumping is VERY hard to do! Some Bullies never seem to learn.
There are SOO many methods to training them to NOT jump up. Some people keep them leashed, some people keep treats near the door, some people teach them to automatically sit when a new person comes round. Any of those things could work for your own bully, or none of them might!
Here are some of the most common methods for teaching a bully to stop jumping up on people to say hello:
So it is hard for them to contain all that excitement and love, so be patient with them and don’t expect miracles!
#8. Poor Recall.
If you have been reading any part of this site then you already know “BULL TERRIERS ARE STUBBORN!”
That being said- they have minds of there own- and certainly know how to use them!
Recall can be notoriously difficult to get right (especially around distractions)
The best thing I can tell you about teaching a good sound recall is
BE CONSISTENT!
Being consistent is your best bet for teaching a reliable recall.
You need to work slowly adding in small distractions one at a time before moving onto larger or more distractions.
Always staying positive and up beat keeping recall training fun and exciting for your dog.
For me and my dogs, recall is EXTREMELY important because I take my dogs out into the woods off lead often- for me and my dogs, recall training NEVER ends.
I’ve always got my treats and toys on hand for our walks.
I however live in an area where my dogs encounter minimal distractions.
I also used Vibration collars for my dogs
(an collar that has a vibrating box attached and a remote control)
I taught my dogs to respond to the vibrations around large distractions.
Vibration collars can be pricey-but well worth the buy considering you do the correct training (many dogs flat out ignore the vibrations until they are trained to respond to them.
My first male was not reliable off-lead until he was 2 years old, my female was a bit more clingy and easier to train and was reliable after a year.
But each dog is different- some dogs are never reliable off-lead.
I Do have a few rules about my dogs being off lead that I feel ALL owners should follow in order to be responsible dog Owner:
#1.NEVER let your dog off-lead in public areas without 100% reliable recall!
THAT MEANS: if your dog has not proven itself again and again in these situations and you have any doubt of him ignoring people, cars, kids on bikes, other dogs, cat, squirrels, etc keep the dog on a long line and keep working with him.
#2. NEVER let your dog approach people or other dogs (on or off-lead) without your permission!!
THAT MEANS:Your dog does not go soliciting attention from strangers who have not invited it, does not walk up to sniff a child, does not go up to an on or off lead dog to sniff its rear or to say hello without checking in with you for permission.
If my dogs even attempt to go say hello to human or animal without my permission, I give a firm verbal correction telling them “AHHH! Leave it!”
if they ignore me, I take them and put them right back on lead and we begin recall training from scratch over the course of several weeks or months.
A dog checking in with me looks something like this:
dog focuses on human or other dog- becoming alert, stare intently- maybe take a step forward- stops turning around to look at me in the face.
I notice the person/ owner saying “its okay! He can come over!”
my dog looks back at them then back at me-standing there.
If I point and say “go on!” then they wander over
if I say
no, not today, c'mon”
then turn round and follow close to me.
I have had to start recall training from scratch about a hundred times over the years- but I wouldn't do it any other way.
#3.NEVER let a dog off-lead near busy streets or in town.
MEANING: if there is a chance my dogs could get hit or hurt- they are kept on lead.
BUT- Yet again, I live in a small town area- Upper MI to be exact, we don’t have large cities, we have forest and fields and open spaces.
I had never even SEEN a 6 lane highway till I went to Chicago to pick up my Female.
We are insanely back woods here! So, for me this is pretty easy. If you live in or near a large city- make sure to keep your dog in a fenced in area.
I get told by a lot of people that having my dogs off-lead at all is irresponsible. Perhaps
I personally feel that, because of the amount of irresponsible owners who DO let there UN mannered dogs run loose and pester people- it Is MY job to make sure my dogs being off lead do not trouble anyone, that people can be around my dogs without having to worry about there children, there dogs, there bikes, cars, picnic, or themselves- I want them to not even notice my dogs are there.e.
I don’t want my dogs to ruin someones day at the beach or park if this person is fearful of dogs!
I don’t want my dogs to chase other dog owners away because my dog is being an ass hole!
And I certainly NEVER want children to have a fear of dogs because mine have stole there lunch or knocked them down, because it wouldn’t be “MY DOGS” that causes that trouble- it will be “ME”
if my dogs got into a young child’s face and he cried or became afraid it would be “MY FAULT”
if my dogs said hello to someone who is terrified of dogs and has a panic attack it wouldn’t be my dogs fault-it would be “MY FAULT”
Keep that in mind EVERY TIME you think about letting your dog off lead in public.
If a child falls off his bike because your dog run ups to greet him- that’s YOUR FAULT
if your dog approaches a dog aggressive dog and causes an outburst, its not your dogs fault, its YOUR FAULT.
If your dog gets into a child’s face to sniff them and the child cries out of fear
that’s not the dogs fault- its YOUR FAULT.
And no matter how sweet or well meaning your dog may be, its YOU and your dog to blame, and if something happens ALWAYS SAY SORRY FOR YOUR DOGS BEHAVIOR!
I have a friend, on a dog forum who, came on one day to rant about a women who came into the pet store she works at and yelled at her female dog for sniffing her legs.
She was angry that this women was angry and asked her to remove her dog.
Her reasons were
“she was so cute and just wanted to be petted! This women is walking into a pet store to buy dog food! What does she expect??”
DOESN'T MATTER.
If YOUR dog is invading someones space and it makes them feel uncomfortable- its YOUR FAULT and ts YOUR responsibility to remove. Stop your dog and apologize.
When our house was on the market to be sold by our landlord.
A realator came in to show the house (OUR house, which WE lived)
Cesar was very excited and was sniffing her all over- he did not jump on her or bark just sniff her legs and rear end while she was trying to move, I could see her discomfort, now most people would have said
“well its HIS house! He has a right to sniff her!”
your right- it is his house and he did have the right to sniff her.
BUT
its MY responsibility to protect ANYONE who enters MY home from feeling uncomfortable by MY dogs- because THAT is what being a responsible owner is all about.
Cesar was put on a lead and I held him back from sniffing while we did some training.
The woman was obviously thankful I had stopped him.
#7. Pulling on the lead.
This can be a HUGE issue for Bull Terrier's
Puppies also often go thru a faze where they hit the breaks as soon as the lead goes on- also extremely common.
The Best advice I can give is to not pressure your Bullie when it comes to going for walks.
Weather they hit the breaks or yank you off your feet.
You always want to be patient and stay upbeat and happy.
One thing you need to realize is- Bull Terriers are very strong, they have a lot of muscle and unlike some other breeds- they are capable of tuning out discomfort and pain.
While other breeds often pay attention to quick leads jerks and being choked, Bullies rarely do and tune it out while sounding as they are going to pass out due to a lack of oxygen (if you have ever walked a puller- you know that wheezing, hacking, coughing well)
Teaching a Bullie to walk nicely on a lead can take...upwards of a few months when it comes to distractions.
You really need to stay calm and take things slowly when it comes to teaching a Bullie to not pull on a lead, I know sometimes we feel the need to give a firm jerk to “get-it-thru-there-thick-heads”
or if you are like me you wanna just grab them by there meaty shoulders and shake them violently.
Of course we ALL know that wont work.
So, you may as well do it the hard way, take it inch by inch, day by day, distraction by distraction.
I am sure by know you are seeing a pattern
“Take it slow and easy-take your time, stay calm and don't rush it”
That is because Bull Terrier's are not always the fastest learner's when it comes to doing your bidding.
When I was working with my Boy Cesar, he was the WORST for pulling, He had no manner's and would just plow through anyone and anything.
IT WAS MISERABLE.
Some day's Our walk and training was doing nothing more then walking out the front door to the drive way- turning around and going back inside just to do it again and again.
It was only a couple of steps at a time done over and over and over again to the point that he began to understand what was expected of him before moving onto the next step- walking down the street. It took us several weeks before we were able to finish going round the entire block.
You will feel like your Bullie is never going to stop pulling- but just take your time, stay positive!
It takes time for it to become a conditioned response.
it is no secret Bull Terrier's LOVE people.
Bull Terriers enjoy showing people just how much they love them by
Jumping up on them and bouncing up and down like mad! Curbing a Bullies jumping is VERY hard to do! Some Bullies never seem to learn.
There are SOO many methods to training them to NOT jump up. Some people keep them leashed, some people keep treats near the door, some people teach them to automatically sit when a new person comes round. Any of those things could work for your own bully, or none of them might!
Here are some of the most common methods for teaching a bully to stop jumping up on people to say hello:
- Keeping some treats near the door
so when people arive then can automatically ask your bully to sit.
When your bully sits, they can reward them and them pet them.
- Keeping a youngster on lead and
giving a gentle tug every time they jump up and allowing them to be
petted once they stop jumping around.
- Having the person being jumped on
to cross there arms and turn there backs each time the bully jumps
on them ignoring them, only petting once the bully stops jumping up.
- Training the bully to
automatically sit before he or she is allowed to be petted- and
NEVER petting them when they jump up.
So it is hard for them to contain all that excitement and love, so be patient with them and don’t expect miracles!
#8. Poor Recall.
If you have been reading any part of this site then you already know “BULL TERRIERS ARE STUBBORN!”
That being said- they have minds of there own- and certainly know how to use them!
Recall can be notoriously difficult to get right (especially around distractions)
The best thing I can tell you about teaching a good sound recall is
BE CONSISTENT!
Being consistent is your best bet for teaching a reliable recall.
You need to work slowly adding in small distractions one at a time before moving onto larger or more distractions.
Always staying positive and up beat keeping recall training fun and exciting for your dog.
For me and my dogs, recall is EXTREMELY important because I take my dogs out into the woods off lead often- for me and my dogs, recall training NEVER ends.
I’ve always got my treats and toys on hand for our walks.
I however live in an area where my dogs encounter minimal distractions.
I also used Vibration collars for my dogs
(an collar that has a vibrating box attached and a remote control)
I taught my dogs to respond to the vibrations around large distractions.
Vibration collars can be pricey-but well worth the buy considering you do the correct training (many dogs flat out ignore the vibrations until they are trained to respond to them.
My first male was not reliable off-lead until he was 2 years old, my female was a bit more clingy and easier to train and was reliable after a year.
But each dog is different- some dogs are never reliable off-lead.
I Do have a few rules about my dogs being off lead that I feel ALL owners should follow in order to be responsible dog Owner:
#1.NEVER let your dog off-lead in public areas without 100% reliable recall!
THAT MEANS: if your dog has not proven itself again and again in these situations and you have any doubt of him ignoring people, cars, kids on bikes, other dogs, cat, squirrels, etc keep the dog on a long line and keep working with him.
#2. NEVER let your dog approach people or other dogs (on or off-lead) without your permission!!
THAT MEANS:Your dog does not go soliciting attention from strangers who have not invited it, does not walk up to sniff a child, does not go up to an on or off lead dog to sniff its rear or to say hello without checking in with you for permission.
If my dogs even attempt to go say hello to human or animal without my permission, I give a firm verbal correction telling them “AHHH! Leave it!”
if they ignore me, I take them and put them right back on lead and we begin recall training from scratch over the course of several weeks or months.
A dog checking in with me looks something like this:
dog focuses on human or other dog- becoming alert, stare intently- maybe take a step forward- stops turning around to look at me in the face.
I notice the person/ owner saying “its okay! He can come over!”
my dog looks back at them then back at me-standing there.
If I point and say “go on!” then they wander over
if I say
no, not today, c'mon”
then turn round and follow close to me.
I have had to start recall training from scratch about a hundred times over the years- but I wouldn't do it any other way.
#3.NEVER let a dog off-lead near busy streets or in town.
MEANING: if there is a chance my dogs could get hit or hurt- they are kept on lead.
BUT- Yet again, I live in a small town area- Upper MI to be exact, we don’t have large cities, we have forest and fields and open spaces.
I had never even SEEN a 6 lane highway till I went to Chicago to pick up my Female.
We are insanely back woods here! So, for me this is pretty easy. If you live in or near a large city- make sure to keep your dog in a fenced in area.
I get told by a lot of people that having my dogs off-lead at all is irresponsible. Perhaps
I personally feel that, because of the amount of irresponsible owners who DO let there UN mannered dogs run loose and pester people- it Is MY job to make sure my dogs being off lead do not trouble anyone, that people can be around my dogs without having to worry about there children, there dogs, there bikes, cars, picnic, or themselves- I want them to not even notice my dogs are there.e.
I don’t want my dogs to ruin someones day at the beach or park if this person is fearful of dogs!
I don’t want my dogs to chase other dog owners away because my dog is being an ass hole!
And I certainly NEVER want children to have a fear of dogs because mine have stole there lunch or knocked them down, because it wouldn’t be “MY DOGS” that causes that trouble- it will be “ME”
if my dogs got into a young child’s face and he cried or became afraid it would be “MY FAULT”
if my dogs said hello to someone who is terrified of dogs and has a panic attack it wouldn’t be my dogs fault-it would be “MY FAULT”
Keep that in mind EVERY TIME you think about letting your dog off lead in public.
If a child falls off his bike because your dog run ups to greet him- that’s YOUR FAULT
if your dog approaches a dog aggressive dog and causes an outburst, its not your dogs fault, its YOUR FAULT.
If your dog gets into a child’s face to sniff them and the child cries out of fear
that’s not the dogs fault- its YOUR FAULT.
And no matter how sweet or well meaning your dog may be, its YOU and your dog to blame, and if something happens ALWAYS SAY SORRY FOR YOUR DOGS BEHAVIOR!
I have a friend, on a dog forum who, came on one day to rant about a women who came into the pet store she works at and yelled at her female dog for sniffing her legs.
She was angry that this women was angry and asked her to remove her dog.
Her reasons were
“she was so cute and just wanted to be petted! This women is walking into a pet store to buy dog food! What does she expect??”
DOESN'T MATTER.
If YOUR dog is invading someones space and it makes them feel uncomfortable- its YOUR FAULT and ts YOUR responsibility to remove. Stop your dog and apologize.
When our house was on the market to be sold by our landlord.
A realator came in to show the house (OUR house, which WE lived)
Cesar was very excited and was sniffing her all over- he did not jump on her or bark just sniff her legs and rear end while she was trying to move, I could see her discomfort, now most people would have said
“well its HIS house! He has a right to sniff her!”
your right- it is his house and he did have the right to sniff her.
BUT
its MY responsibility to protect ANYONE who enters MY home from feeling uncomfortable by MY dogs- because THAT is what being a responsible owner is all about.
Cesar was put on a lead and I held him back from sniffing while we did some training.
The woman was obviously thankful I had stopped him.
#7. Pulling on the lead.
This can be a HUGE issue for Bull Terrier's
Puppies also often go thru a faze where they hit the breaks as soon as the lead goes on- also extremely common.
The Best advice I can give is to not pressure your Bullie when it comes to going for walks.
Weather they hit the breaks or yank you off your feet.
You always want to be patient and stay upbeat and happy.
One thing you need to realize is- Bull Terriers are very strong, they have a lot of muscle and unlike some other breeds- they are capable of tuning out discomfort and pain.
While other breeds often pay attention to quick leads jerks and being choked, Bullies rarely do and tune it out while sounding as they are going to pass out due to a lack of oxygen (if you have ever walked a puller- you know that wheezing, hacking, coughing well)
Teaching a Bullie to walk nicely on a lead can take...upwards of a few months when it comes to distractions.
You really need to stay calm and take things slowly when it comes to teaching a Bullie to not pull on a lead, I know sometimes we feel the need to give a firm jerk to “get-it-thru-there-thick-heads”
or if you are like me you wanna just grab them by there meaty shoulders and shake them violently.
Of course we ALL know that wont work.
So, you may as well do it the hard way, take it inch by inch, day by day, distraction by distraction.
I am sure by know you are seeing a pattern
“Take it slow and easy-take your time, stay calm and don't rush it”
That is because Bull Terrier's are not always the fastest learner's when it comes to doing your bidding.
When I was working with my Boy Cesar, he was the WORST for pulling, He had no manner's and would just plow through anyone and anything.
IT WAS MISERABLE.
Some day's Our walk and training was doing nothing more then walking out the front door to the drive way- turning around and going back inside just to do it again and again.
It was only a couple of steps at a time done over and over and over again to the point that he began to understand what was expected of him before moving onto the next step- walking down the street. It took us several weeks before we were able to finish going round the entire block.
You will feel like your Bullie is never going to stop pulling- but just take your time, stay positive!
It takes time for it to become a conditioned response.
#6. Chewing
All dogs chew, all dogs NEED to chew. Think of it as a NEED over a bad habit because, it is!
Dogs need to chew, it relieves stress and helps keep teeth and gums healthy.
You should never ever try to eliminate chewing completely but give your dog safe things to chew on freely.
Tough rubber toys, bones, etc.
Bull Terrier's are a breed with a tough mouth and chew and mouth often all the way into adulthood.
but Puppies and youngsters can be persistent in chewing up things that are not appropriate!
Your best bet is simply being consistent, keeping a close eye on your Bull Terrier at all times, keeping things picked up and keeping them entertained until they begin to learn what isa nd is not okay to chew on.
All dogs chew, all dogs NEED to chew. Think of it as a NEED over a bad habit because, it is!
Dogs need to chew, it relieves stress and helps keep teeth and gums healthy.
You should never ever try to eliminate chewing completely but give your dog safe things to chew on freely.
Tough rubber toys, bones, etc.
Bull Terrier's are a breed with a tough mouth and chew and mouth often all the way into adulthood.
but Puppies and youngsters can be persistent in chewing up things that are not appropriate!
Your best bet is simply being consistent, keeping a close eye on your Bull Terrier at all times, keeping things picked up and keeping them entertained until they begin to learn what isa nd is not okay to chew on.
#5. Eating Things
This is a BIG problem that cannot truly be trained out- simply managed. this behavior is extremely common for this breed and often causes serious problems, even death when they eat something indigestible causing them to become sick and eventually die if not treated right away.
Bull Terrier's will pretty much eat anything if given the opportunity. Ive had my own eat rocks, dirt, cat litter,Plastic, paper, a whole plastic bag,socks, elastic bands, wire, rubber, tin foil, cardboard, and countless other things.
Almost all Bull Terriers do it, some have a taste for specific things, some have a taste for all of them!
The best you can do to prevent issues is to always watching your Bull Terrier, never keep them home unattended, never assume they haven't eaten anything.
All you can do is manage the behavior- you cant cure it.
This is a BIG problem that cannot truly be trained out- simply managed. this behavior is extremely common for this breed and often causes serious problems, even death when they eat something indigestible causing them to become sick and eventually die if not treated right away.
Bull Terrier's will pretty much eat anything if given the opportunity. Ive had my own eat rocks, dirt, cat litter,Plastic, paper, a whole plastic bag,socks, elastic bands, wire, rubber, tin foil, cardboard, and countless other things.
Almost all Bull Terriers do it, some have a taste for specific things, some have a taste for all of them!
The best you can do to prevent issues is to always watching your Bull Terrier, never keep them home unattended, never assume they haven't eaten anything.
All you can do is manage the behavior- you cant cure it.
#4. Over Excitement
Bull Terrier's ARE Terrier's, don't let that "Bull" size and shape fol you. Terrier's are feisty, energetic, crazy and athletic.
Bull Terrier's may look like a burly, lazy breed, but they are far from it! They are very athletic and high energy.
These are not a breed for the owner who appreciates their relaxation time.
Exercise is the best cure for adult Bull Terrier's
walking
hiking
jogging
bike riding
flirt pole
swimming
agility
are all great ways of exercising your Bull Terrier, I personally teach all my dogs to be comfortable with being on a treadmill for days I am unable to get out due to bad weather or when I am busy working and they have not had their fill.
This is often a big problem for first time Bull Terrier owners, many do not truly understand what "Energetic" means till they own a Terrier.
Bull Terrier's need ls of physical and mental exercise, lots of training and mentally stimulating games along with physical working out.
a single 45 minute walk a day is rarely enough for a young adult.
If you are having problems with your Bull Terrier's energy levels, try adding in more exercise.
if he or she is getting 45 minutes every night, try for 2 hours.
if 2 hours is not enough try adding a flirt pole or game of fetch in.
An overly excited and under stimulated Bull Terrier can cause a lot of problems, many problems owners would never directly relate to a lack of exercise.
Things such as
Self mutilation-
Nipping/biting-
Resource guarding-
Destructive behavior-
Eating objects-
Leash pulling-
Running away-
Not listening-
Barking-
Nervousness/anxiety-
Starting fights with other dogs-
Chasing other pets/ wildlife-
Proper exercise and mental stimulation will keep your Bull Terrier healthy and happy while keeping YOU sane and happy!
Exercising your Bull Terrier will keep problems down to a minimum and avoid lots of heart ache and headaches.
Bull Terrier's ARE Terrier's, don't let that "Bull" size and shape fol you. Terrier's are feisty, energetic, crazy and athletic.
Bull Terrier's may look like a burly, lazy breed, but they are far from it! They are very athletic and high energy.
These are not a breed for the owner who appreciates their relaxation time.
Exercise is the best cure for adult Bull Terrier's
walking
hiking
jogging
bike riding
flirt pole
swimming
agility
are all great ways of exercising your Bull Terrier, I personally teach all my dogs to be comfortable with being on a treadmill for days I am unable to get out due to bad weather or when I am busy working and they have not had their fill.
This is often a big problem for first time Bull Terrier owners, many do not truly understand what "Energetic" means till they own a Terrier.
Bull Terrier's need ls of physical and mental exercise, lots of training and mentally stimulating games along with physical working out.
a single 45 minute walk a day is rarely enough for a young adult.
If you are having problems with your Bull Terrier's energy levels, try adding in more exercise.
if he or she is getting 45 minutes every night, try for 2 hours.
if 2 hours is not enough try adding a flirt pole or game of fetch in.
An overly excited and under stimulated Bull Terrier can cause a lot of problems, many problems owners would never directly relate to a lack of exercise.
Things such as
Self mutilation-
Nipping/biting-
Resource guarding-
Destructive behavior-
Eating objects-
Leash pulling-
Running away-
Not listening-
Barking-
Nervousness/anxiety-
Starting fights with other dogs-
Chasing other pets/ wildlife-
Proper exercise and mental stimulation will keep your Bull Terrier healthy and happy while keeping YOU sane and happy!
Exercising your Bull Terrier will keep problems down to a minimum and avoid lots of heart ache and headaches.
#3. Resource Guarding
Resource guarding is scary, is dangerous, is serious, is unfortunately some what common.
Resource guarding should not be taken lightly and a knowledgeable Behaviorist should always be contacted should your Bull Terrier begin to exhibit this behavior towards you or one of your family members.
Food guarding is to be expected towards other dogs and, so long as it is only towards other dogs there is nothing to be worried about- this is not something that will change from dog to human and should always be managed by keeping dogs separated while offering food.
Guarding towards humans however is another matter and NEEDS to be addressed As Soon As Possible with someone who understands it and knows what they are doing.
My first Bull Terrier ever was severely food aggressive and I was ill prepared at the time and ended up choosing to return him to the breeder and begin long intensive research into food aggression.
What I learned was, this behavior is generally caused by 1 of 2 things.
The dog is very nervous and almost paranoid of having his food taken away from him, he will tuck his tail as he eats, looking around nervously, remain tense and ready to protect his prize with his life. He is on the defense and just WAITING for someone to steal his prize be it food, bone, toy, bed or- even human.
Because of this intense fear and anxiety, any perceived threat is fair game and growled at or snapped at or full blown attacked.
or
The dog is extremely excited by what it has or what it thinks it will soon have, being so excited the adrenaline is just surging through her veins! her body is tense and maybe even shaking a bit, she fixates on the object she has and and nothing else, suddenly movement her muscle tensed as it is she lunges making a roaring noise as all her energy explodes!
She has no clue what she was lunging at all she seen was movement nearby and she used it to release some of her intense energy build up.
Either way, the dog needs to be re-conditioned to treat these things as anything else, to learn to relax, to calm, to trust that this object will not be stolen from them, that no one is going to fight them for it, that they NEED to be relaxes while using/having/being near these things.
NEVER try to attempt working with your dog who is showing signs of aggression or resource guarding by yourself without a skilled professional.
Often times people make it worse by yelling at the dog or scolding them for reacting thus causing the guarding the become worse and the reactions stronger and more scary.
Some people attempt to use a shock or e-collar to "cure the problem- again causing things to become much much worse.
Please contact a behaviorist at the first sign of trouble!
Resource guarding is scary, is dangerous, is serious, is unfortunately some what common.
Resource guarding should not be taken lightly and a knowledgeable Behaviorist should always be contacted should your Bull Terrier begin to exhibit this behavior towards you or one of your family members.
Food guarding is to be expected towards other dogs and, so long as it is only towards other dogs there is nothing to be worried about- this is not something that will change from dog to human and should always be managed by keeping dogs separated while offering food.
Guarding towards humans however is another matter and NEEDS to be addressed As Soon As Possible with someone who understands it and knows what they are doing.
My first Bull Terrier ever was severely food aggressive and I was ill prepared at the time and ended up choosing to return him to the breeder and begin long intensive research into food aggression.
What I learned was, this behavior is generally caused by 1 of 2 things.
The dog is very nervous and almost paranoid of having his food taken away from him, he will tuck his tail as he eats, looking around nervously, remain tense and ready to protect his prize with his life. He is on the defense and just WAITING for someone to steal his prize be it food, bone, toy, bed or- even human.
Because of this intense fear and anxiety, any perceived threat is fair game and growled at or snapped at or full blown attacked.
or
The dog is extremely excited by what it has or what it thinks it will soon have, being so excited the adrenaline is just surging through her veins! her body is tense and maybe even shaking a bit, she fixates on the object she has and and nothing else, suddenly movement her muscle tensed as it is she lunges making a roaring noise as all her energy explodes!
She has no clue what she was lunging at all she seen was movement nearby and she used it to release some of her intense energy build up.
Either way, the dog needs to be re-conditioned to treat these things as anything else, to learn to relax, to calm, to trust that this object will not be stolen from them, that no one is going to fight them for it, that they NEED to be relaxes while using/having/being near these things.
NEVER try to attempt working with your dog who is showing signs of aggression or resource guarding by yourself without a skilled professional.
Often times people make it worse by yelling at the dog or scolding them for reacting thus causing the guarding the become worse and the reactions stronger and more scary.
Some people attempt to use a shock or e-collar to "cure the problem- again causing things to become much much worse.
Please contact a behaviorist at the first sign of trouble!
#2. Prey Drive
Bull Terrier's were bred for many years to be independent rat hunters, They were good at what they did.
All dogs have prey drive, including tiny little chihuahua's!
Terrier's were bred to have a very intense focus, to be able to zone everything else out and focus so intensely on a rat.
To be able to ignore sounds, pain, everything.
Because of this, a Bull Terrier's prey drive can be amazing sight to witness.
But its also what can make training very difficult.
Prey drive is the thing that causes a Bull Terrier to chase children on bikes, cars, cats.
Prey drive it what causes Bull Terriers to go crazy over strange noises.
Prey drive is what causes Bull Terrier's to run fences
Prey drive is what causes Bull Terrier's to play fetch
Using Prey Drive to your advantage can be a beautiful thing
but when Prey drive is used negatively it can be a real nightmare.
many people have trouble with prey drive because they do not know how to use it to there advantage.
Prey drive is not anything you can ever train out or train away or fix, its a natural instinctual thing that will never ever go away.
Over the years I have seen Bull Terrier's come in 4 varieties of "Personality"
Bull Type's (Describe personality only for this part- other times the term "Bull Type can mean the structure)
This personality type is pretty laid back, calm, docile, somewhat of a couch potato, they prefer to lay around most of the day, these Bull Terrier's are great for more laid back households. But this type of personality in the Bull Terrier can be difficult to motivate to train or walk because they are not motivated to work much!
The "Terrier" type of personality (Again, normally the term "Terrier type" is used to describe the structure- but for now I am using it to describe personality)
The "Terrier" type personality Bullie is NOT for the novice dog owner and is not even the best for many advanced dog owners. they are extremely high energy, need to be kept stimulated and have at LEAST 3-6 hours of mental and physical exercise per day, leaving this personality type out in the yard all day is sure to end up with a dog who spins, chews themselves raw, who is extremely destructive, barky and ill mannered.
My female Chimera was a Terrier type personality, from the age of a year and a half old she was doing 2 hours on the treadmill daily along with a 2-6 hour off lead walk/ run daily which would include swimming, fetch and flirt pole play.
in the winter we would include setting up an indoor agility course to get her to jump and was also started early on weight pulling.
Terrier type personality's are often the easiest to motive and work with- but need to be worked with and trained intensively on a daily basis for the rest of the dogs life.
Then you have your in between personality types, some which are more "Terrier" and some which are more "Bull"
Many people assume "Prey Drive" is merely the desire to chase and mistakenly believe that, as long as they keep their dog leashed while out doors, they are safe from having to deal with such things.
Unfortunately that is rarely the case as Prey Drive presents itself in many ways, many ways that people would not expect.
Bull Terrier's are often highly stimulated by sounds, sounds you would not expect.
Your phone ringing might cause them to bark or attack the phone.
Your child spinning in a circle or swinging on the swing set might cause your Bull Terrier to jump at them to nip clothing or chase them.
The sound of the toilet flushing might cause them to try attacking it.
Bull Terriers can be set off by many things that you would never expect, and it can be very difficult to stop them once they start, that is why training them from the first day they come to your home is VITAL!
Working on a "Leave it" command is so important.
If you find your Bull Terrier becoming fixated on something inappropriate, I suggest contacting a Behaviorist to help you work through this problem.
Bull Terrier's were bred for many years to be independent rat hunters, They were good at what they did.
All dogs have prey drive, including tiny little chihuahua's!
Terrier's were bred to have a very intense focus, to be able to zone everything else out and focus so intensely on a rat.
To be able to ignore sounds, pain, everything.
Because of this, a Bull Terrier's prey drive can be amazing sight to witness.
But its also what can make training very difficult.
Prey drive is the thing that causes a Bull Terrier to chase children on bikes, cars, cats.
Prey drive it what causes Bull Terriers to go crazy over strange noises.
Prey drive is what causes Bull Terrier's to run fences
Prey drive is what causes Bull Terrier's to play fetch
Using Prey Drive to your advantage can be a beautiful thing
but when Prey drive is used negatively it can be a real nightmare.
many people have trouble with prey drive because they do not know how to use it to there advantage.
Prey drive is not anything you can ever train out or train away or fix, its a natural instinctual thing that will never ever go away.
Over the years I have seen Bull Terrier's come in 4 varieties of "Personality"
Bull Type's (Describe personality only for this part- other times the term "Bull Type can mean the structure)
This personality type is pretty laid back, calm, docile, somewhat of a couch potato, they prefer to lay around most of the day, these Bull Terrier's are great for more laid back households. But this type of personality in the Bull Terrier can be difficult to motivate to train or walk because they are not motivated to work much!
The "Terrier" type of personality (Again, normally the term "Terrier type" is used to describe the structure- but for now I am using it to describe personality)
The "Terrier" type personality Bullie is NOT for the novice dog owner and is not even the best for many advanced dog owners. they are extremely high energy, need to be kept stimulated and have at LEAST 3-6 hours of mental and physical exercise per day, leaving this personality type out in the yard all day is sure to end up with a dog who spins, chews themselves raw, who is extremely destructive, barky and ill mannered.
My female Chimera was a Terrier type personality, from the age of a year and a half old she was doing 2 hours on the treadmill daily along with a 2-6 hour off lead walk/ run daily which would include swimming, fetch and flirt pole play.
in the winter we would include setting up an indoor agility course to get her to jump and was also started early on weight pulling.
Terrier type personality's are often the easiest to motive and work with- but need to be worked with and trained intensively on a daily basis for the rest of the dogs life.
Then you have your in between personality types, some which are more "Terrier" and some which are more "Bull"
Many people assume "Prey Drive" is merely the desire to chase and mistakenly believe that, as long as they keep their dog leashed while out doors, they are safe from having to deal with such things.
Unfortunately that is rarely the case as Prey Drive presents itself in many ways, many ways that people would not expect.
Bull Terrier's are often highly stimulated by sounds, sounds you would not expect.
Your phone ringing might cause them to bark or attack the phone.
Your child spinning in a circle or swinging on the swing set might cause your Bull Terrier to jump at them to nip clothing or chase them.
The sound of the toilet flushing might cause them to try attacking it.
Bull Terriers can be set off by many things that you would never expect, and it can be very difficult to stop them once they start, that is why training them from the first day they come to your home is VITAL!
Working on a "Leave it" command is so important.
If you find your Bull Terrier becoming fixated on something inappropriate, I suggest contacting a Behaviorist to help you work through this problem.
#1.Nipping
Nipping I would have to say is the number 1 most common complaint I see from people, almost always from there adolescent Bullies.
Most people who are not used to Bully breeds are very upset when they get their first Bull Terrier, they are in love, they have heard all the stories about Bull Terrier's being nippy and mouthy. They know they laugh, they remember when they had other puppies, they know all the tricks and are unconcerned because they know they can stop that nipping within the first 3 months, they are sure of it!
but suddenly their Bull Terrier puppy is going on 6 months old, weighs 45 pounds and is STILL mouthing!
they are mouthing hard enough to leave bruises!
Suddenly they are worried
"Will he EVER stop?"
"Is he going to be aggressive?"
'WHY WONT SHE LISTEN WHEN I SAY NO!?"
Unless this behavior is connected with food aggression or resource guarding, it is probably not aggression but simply your Bull Terrier being a Puppy!
Bull breeds mature slowly, and Bull Terrier's tend to mature VERY slowly!
Many people will tell you that "large breeds are adults by the first birthday"
many people wrongly assume the same of Bull Terrier's
they assume that a 1 year old Bull Terrier is done with puberty (especially those that have been spayed or neutered)
and that is WRONG!
Bull Terrier's puberty most commonly begins right around a year and do not end until closer to 2 years old.
though for some puberty begins at 6 months and end by 18 months.
Nipping is a big part of a puppies way of learning, and often times Bull Terrier's become so overly excited that they do not pay attention and cannot help themselves.
My boy Cesar is going on 4 years old now and when becoming overly excited will sometimes STILL give me the accidental nip
never breaks skin and a quick "Hey!" is enough to remind him that is not allowed.
But it is the breed. They rarely do it to be mean and are only trying to play with you, so take your time, be patient and stop any game or play when you begin to notice them becoming overly excited or should they begin nipping.
Nipping I would have to say is the number 1 most common complaint I see from people, almost always from there adolescent Bullies.
Most people who are not used to Bully breeds are very upset when they get their first Bull Terrier, they are in love, they have heard all the stories about Bull Terrier's being nippy and mouthy. They know they laugh, they remember when they had other puppies, they know all the tricks and are unconcerned because they know they can stop that nipping within the first 3 months, they are sure of it!
but suddenly their Bull Terrier puppy is going on 6 months old, weighs 45 pounds and is STILL mouthing!
they are mouthing hard enough to leave bruises!
Suddenly they are worried
"Will he EVER stop?"
"Is he going to be aggressive?"
'WHY WONT SHE LISTEN WHEN I SAY NO!?"
Unless this behavior is connected with food aggression or resource guarding, it is probably not aggression but simply your Bull Terrier being a Puppy!
Bull breeds mature slowly, and Bull Terrier's tend to mature VERY slowly!
Many people will tell you that "large breeds are adults by the first birthday"
many people wrongly assume the same of Bull Terrier's
they assume that a 1 year old Bull Terrier is done with puberty (especially those that have been spayed or neutered)
and that is WRONG!
Bull Terrier's puberty most commonly begins right around a year and do not end until closer to 2 years old.
though for some puberty begins at 6 months and end by 18 months.
Nipping is a big part of a puppies way of learning, and often times Bull Terrier's become so overly excited that they do not pay attention and cannot help themselves.
My boy Cesar is going on 4 years old now and when becoming overly excited will sometimes STILL give me the accidental nip
never breaks skin and a quick "Hey!" is enough to remind him that is not allowed.
But it is the breed. They rarely do it to be mean and are only trying to play with you, so take your time, be patient and stop any game or play when you begin to notice them becoming overly excited or should they begin nipping.