Training and understanding...
To properly train a Bull Terrier, you really do
have to understand them.
This breed is not like a typical Labrador, or
Poodle, this is a breed that will test you constantly to see how badly you
REALLY want them to do something, how much of what you ask do they REALLY have
to actually do. They will do their best to take short cuts and simply get up and
walk away ignoring you.
While asking them to sit, they may stand their
and stare at you for 5 minutes wondering if your going to MAKE them sit or if
they can simply stand their long enough for you to simply give up asking.
You might ask them to come and they may keep
sniffing the ground till you get some gruff in your voice and say “NOW!” before
they kind of drag their feet and act like the grass is extremely interesting to
smell right now.
It is in these types of moments when they will
test your patience , but it is also in those moments you can show them it pays
to listen and also that your trust worthy. You can never force a Bull Terrier to do your
bidding- get angry and they will avoid you and your commands-be too soft and
they will walk all over you..
Your goal when training a Bull Terrier, is to
convince them to WANT to do what you ask-or at least to make them comfortable
doing what you ask.
You want your Bull Terrier to respect you as well
as trust you-dogs who do not trust their handlers are not happy when
training.
"Being nice does not always gain Respect, but
being Mean Will never gain trust."
Please keep that in mind when working with your
dog.
You also must respect the things I mentioned in
“THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW” page about the darker side of bullies.
Understand that, with SOME Bull Terriers, some
traits cannot simply be trained away-some of those traits are:
dog aggression-while not all Bull Terriers are dog aggressive, if they truly are, then that is something that needs to be
MANAGED as it cannot be trained out. If you have a Bull Terrier who truly dislikes
other dogs-please do not think more socialization is going to “cure” them and
make them suddenly love other dogs. Being dog aggressive is NOT a horrible
thing, your dog is NOT a monster. But there are things you can do to MANAGE this behavior, which I will talk about in the “troubling behavior" section.
Prey drive:
all dogs have prey drive, some have higher prey
drives then others, this is not something you can train out or get rid of. All you can do is MANAGE the behavior appropriately. A Bull Terrier who has a lot of prey drive often releases it on things like vacuum cleaners, kids on bikes, the cat, the treadmill belt, certain TV commercials, etc.
you need to allow your Bull Terrier to release this energy in more appropriate ways using games and toys.
Hyper activity-
his IS a high energy breed of dog, so you must
realize that, they NEED a lot of exercise. And I find it upsetting to learn that, most peoples idea of “a lot of exercise” now days is a 30-45 minute walk around the block after work a few times per week.
While that might work for an older Bull Terrier
do not expect it to be that way for a young, healthy Bull Terrier. A lack of exercise can attribute to many issues
you may not expect such as:
chewing, mouthing, nipping, eating foreign
objects, spinning, self mutilation, barking, fighting with other dogs, pulling
on the lead, anxiety, including separation anxiety, nail trimming anxiety,
etc. 2 hours is a good amount of walking for a young adult Bull Terrier daily. Along with obedience training and maybe a few games of
fetch in the yard. So, before you go getting upset or angry at your Bull Terrier, stop and have a look at how much exercise he or she is getting on a daily basis. Also know that-a large back yard is no substitute
for real exercise.
have to understand them.
This breed is not like a typical Labrador, or
Poodle, this is a breed that will test you constantly to see how badly you
REALLY want them to do something, how much of what you ask do they REALLY have
to actually do. They will do their best to take short cuts and simply get up and
walk away ignoring you.
While asking them to sit, they may stand their
and stare at you for 5 minutes wondering if your going to MAKE them sit or if
they can simply stand their long enough for you to simply give up asking.
You might ask them to come and they may keep
sniffing the ground till you get some gruff in your voice and say “NOW!” before
they kind of drag their feet and act like the grass is extremely interesting to
smell right now.
It is in these types of moments when they will
test your patience , but it is also in those moments you can show them it pays
to listen and also that your trust worthy. You can never force a Bull Terrier to do your
bidding- get angry and they will avoid you and your commands-be too soft and
they will walk all over you..
Your goal when training a Bull Terrier, is to
convince them to WANT to do what you ask-or at least to make them comfortable
doing what you ask.
You want your Bull Terrier to respect you as well
as trust you-dogs who do not trust their handlers are not happy when
training.
"Being nice does not always gain Respect, but
being Mean Will never gain trust."
Please keep that in mind when working with your
dog.
You also must respect the things I mentioned in
“THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW” page about the darker side of bullies.
Understand that, with SOME Bull Terriers, some
traits cannot simply be trained away-some of those traits are:
dog aggression-while not all Bull Terriers are dog aggressive, if they truly are, then that is something that needs to be
MANAGED as it cannot be trained out. If you have a Bull Terrier who truly dislikes
other dogs-please do not think more socialization is going to “cure” them and
make them suddenly love other dogs. Being dog aggressive is NOT a horrible
thing, your dog is NOT a monster. But there are things you can do to MANAGE this behavior, which I will talk about in the “troubling behavior" section.
Prey drive:
all dogs have prey drive, some have higher prey
drives then others, this is not something you can train out or get rid of. All you can do is MANAGE the behavior appropriately. A Bull Terrier who has a lot of prey drive often releases it on things like vacuum cleaners, kids on bikes, the cat, the treadmill belt, certain TV commercials, etc.
you need to allow your Bull Terrier to release this energy in more appropriate ways using games and toys.
Hyper activity-
his IS a high energy breed of dog, so you must
realize that, they NEED a lot of exercise. And I find it upsetting to learn that, most peoples idea of “a lot of exercise” now days is a 30-45 minute walk around the block after work a few times per week.
While that might work for an older Bull Terrier
do not expect it to be that way for a young, healthy Bull Terrier. A lack of exercise can attribute to many issues
you may not expect such as:
chewing, mouthing, nipping, eating foreign
objects, spinning, self mutilation, barking, fighting with other dogs, pulling
on the lead, anxiety, including separation anxiety, nail trimming anxiety,
etc. 2 hours is a good amount of walking for a young adult Bull Terrier daily. Along with obedience training and maybe a few games of
fetch in the yard. So, before you go getting upset or angry at your Bull Terrier, stop and have a look at how much exercise he or she is getting on a daily basis. Also know that-a large back yard is no substitute
for real exercise.
NILF "Nothing In Life is Free"
NILF, to me is an extremely important concept in dog training.
NILF In my opinion Is how all dog owners lives should be lived, always keeping that NILF mentality towards their dogs.
NILF is a very simple concept
"Nothing in life is free"
meaning your dog gets nothing without earning it.
and that doesn't just mean food, treats and toys-it means anything the dog see's as valuable
including attention, furniture, living spaces, objects playing favorite games, water, favorite activities, and even in some cases relieving ones self or sniffing.
While many owners think this may sound cruel and very harsh, remember YOU are in control and YOU make it as cruel or harsh as you think.
NILF can do wonders for many dog issues and does wonders for many dogs and owners.
A dogs only way of understanding us is by our reactions to what he does.
A dogs only way of communicating to us is thru how he interacts with us.
Dogs who are given clear rules are happier, more relaxed, more confident and more trusting of the one who enforces those rules.
if you are cruel or harsh, then you are only instilling fear and anxiety in your dog towards you.
NILF can help dogs who are nervous learn self confidence, it can teach adolescent dogs how to behave and it can even help curb serious behavior issues as resource guarding if used correctly.
NILF is not about what you can withhold from your dog, its about using EVERYTHING your dog values as a reward for positive behavior.
When my male Cesar was going through Puberty, NILF was a God send.
He became very nervous around his food and would snap at people who came to near, including my then 7 year old nephew.
I withheld everything from Cesar, I decided when he got food, I decided when he got water, I decided when he was allowed outside to go potty, I decided how he would come out of his crate in the mornings, I decided how we would walk and where, I decided when he was petted and when he was allowed on furniture. I decided what toys he played with and when, I decided when the games would end and play time was over.
but I was always fair, and I was always making sure he was rewarded for his good behavior, which to me was him being relaxed and gentle and happy.
when he started showing signs of guarding toys or food or anything, he would not be rewarded and that object would be taken away until he would go back into that calm happy go lucky state of mind when I would praise him calmly and give him his reward.
You will find many people who use NILF, but my idea of NILF is a bit different then others because mine is catered to Bull Terriers.
A calm and relaxed Bull Terrier makes a happier owner, and a calm Bull Terrier also means a dog more easy to manage, control and get his focus.
if your Bully is hyper or excited it makes it extremely difficult to grab her attention, and as all Bull Terrier owners find out sooner rather then later is,a calm bull terrier cannot accidentally break your nose or break your tooth with their heads slamming into you!
While im not saying you should NEVER allow your Bull Terrier to become excited, just wait until you have taught them some self control.
NILF is effective for dogs of all ages-you can start using NILF the day your new puppy arrives, and many Breeders use NILF for Puppies as soon as they begin walking and chewing the furniture. That's because the concept is so easy for any dog to understand and pick up and its so effective without any negative consequences.
When a new dog or puppy comes in-the more rules the better to begin with.
When I first got Cesar, the rules were many, and I was diligent about enforcing them every day.
I would make him sit calmly whenever I put on his lead-if he was excitable (unless it was because he had to go potty) we would wait and just stand their waiting till he calmed down.
if he wanted water I would make him wait until he was calm and not jumping up to knock the dish from my hands and pick it back up when he was full offering it every hour.
if he came up and bumped my hand to get me to pay him attention, I would look in the other direction and ignore him until he walked away calmly, then I would call him over and pet him and hug him.
when dinner time rolled around we would stand in the kitchen while I prepared his meals and make him wait for upwards of an hour making sure he was super calm (due to his food guarding) once I was certain he was calm I would set the food down.
before he was allowed to be let off lead in a safe area, I would make him sit and wait until he was relaxed then let him go.
he has always been allowed to be excitable in certain areas off lead-but I only allowed that AFTER he had learned basic obedience.
NILF doesn't mean your dog is NEVER allowed on the couch to cuddle, or to sleep in your bed with you, or to be able to hop up happily into someone's lap. NILF is using those things as your dogs REWARD for doing a simple task and learning how to behave.
and, with NILF, it isn't long before-those behaviors you are always asking for? they become CONDITIONED behaviors, meaning, your dog will automatically do them without even being asked to do them, and will be allowed to freely have a bowl of water sitting on the floor or freely be allowed up onto furniture, or you can freely pet her when she approaches you. But it takes time, with Bull Terrier puppies, it often takes the first year to become a conditioned response. but in the long run its all worth it because your Bull Terrier will be happy and well behaved without your nagging or fretting.
NILF In my opinion Is how all dog owners lives should be lived, always keeping that NILF mentality towards their dogs.
NILF is a very simple concept
"Nothing in life is free"
meaning your dog gets nothing without earning it.
and that doesn't just mean food, treats and toys-it means anything the dog see's as valuable
including attention, furniture, living spaces, objects playing favorite games, water, favorite activities, and even in some cases relieving ones self or sniffing.
While many owners think this may sound cruel and very harsh, remember YOU are in control and YOU make it as cruel or harsh as you think.
NILF can do wonders for many dog issues and does wonders for many dogs and owners.
A dogs only way of understanding us is by our reactions to what he does.
A dogs only way of communicating to us is thru how he interacts with us.
Dogs who are given clear rules are happier, more relaxed, more confident and more trusting of the one who enforces those rules.
if you are cruel or harsh, then you are only instilling fear and anxiety in your dog towards you.
NILF can help dogs who are nervous learn self confidence, it can teach adolescent dogs how to behave and it can even help curb serious behavior issues as resource guarding if used correctly.
NILF is not about what you can withhold from your dog, its about using EVERYTHING your dog values as a reward for positive behavior.
When my male Cesar was going through Puberty, NILF was a God send.
He became very nervous around his food and would snap at people who came to near, including my then 7 year old nephew.
I withheld everything from Cesar, I decided when he got food, I decided when he got water, I decided when he was allowed outside to go potty, I decided how he would come out of his crate in the mornings, I decided how we would walk and where, I decided when he was petted and when he was allowed on furniture. I decided what toys he played with and when, I decided when the games would end and play time was over.
but I was always fair, and I was always making sure he was rewarded for his good behavior, which to me was him being relaxed and gentle and happy.
when he started showing signs of guarding toys or food or anything, he would not be rewarded and that object would be taken away until he would go back into that calm happy go lucky state of mind when I would praise him calmly and give him his reward.
You will find many people who use NILF, but my idea of NILF is a bit different then others because mine is catered to Bull Terriers.
A calm and relaxed Bull Terrier makes a happier owner, and a calm Bull Terrier also means a dog more easy to manage, control and get his focus.
if your Bully is hyper or excited it makes it extremely difficult to grab her attention, and as all Bull Terrier owners find out sooner rather then later is,a calm bull terrier cannot accidentally break your nose or break your tooth with their heads slamming into you!
While im not saying you should NEVER allow your Bull Terrier to become excited, just wait until you have taught them some self control.
NILF is effective for dogs of all ages-you can start using NILF the day your new puppy arrives, and many Breeders use NILF for Puppies as soon as they begin walking and chewing the furniture. That's because the concept is so easy for any dog to understand and pick up and its so effective without any negative consequences.
When a new dog or puppy comes in-the more rules the better to begin with.
When I first got Cesar, the rules were many, and I was diligent about enforcing them every day.
I would make him sit calmly whenever I put on his lead-if he was excitable (unless it was because he had to go potty) we would wait and just stand their waiting till he calmed down.
if he wanted water I would make him wait until he was calm and not jumping up to knock the dish from my hands and pick it back up when he was full offering it every hour.
if he came up and bumped my hand to get me to pay him attention, I would look in the other direction and ignore him until he walked away calmly, then I would call him over and pet him and hug him.
when dinner time rolled around we would stand in the kitchen while I prepared his meals and make him wait for upwards of an hour making sure he was super calm (due to his food guarding) once I was certain he was calm I would set the food down.
before he was allowed to be let off lead in a safe area, I would make him sit and wait until he was relaxed then let him go.
he has always been allowed to be excitable in certain areas off lead-but I only allowed that AFTER he had learned basic obedience.
NILF doesn't mean your dog is NEVER allowed on the couch to cuddle, or to sleep in your bed with you, or to be able to hop up happily into someone's lap. NILF is using those things as your dogs REWARD for doing a simple task and learning how to behave.
and, with NILF, it isn't long before-those behaviors you are always asking for? they become CONDITIONED behaviors, meaning, your dog will automatically do them without even being asked to do them, and will be allowed to freely have a bowl of water sitting on the floor or freely be allowed up onto furniture, or you can freely pet her when she approaches you. But it takes time, with Bull Terrier puppies, it often takes the first year to become a conditioned response. but in the long run its all worth it because your Bull Terrier will be happy and well behaved without your nagging or fretting.
Clicker training
Clicker training is a fairly simple concept for both humans and animals to understand, so many trainers swear by it due to the quickness in which it is picked up by the animal, and when i say "animal" i mean just that! It is the go-to method to train dogs, cats, rabbits, dolphins, whales, sea lions, rats, and even ducks and chickens (yes ducks and chickens!)
The reason is due to "conditioning" of the brain, the animal is taught that the distinctive "CLICK" sound will always result in food.
Which creates a positive associating when working FOR the clicker.
The concept is simple for people too, you use the clicker to mark the behavior you want.
Meaning-you ONLY click the clicker the SECOND your dog or pet does the behavior you are looking for.
NOT after they learn to on command, as that defeats the purpose of the clicker.
Lets say your trying to teach your new puppy how to sit using a clicker.
You would go about it in the same way you might without the clicker, taking a treat to hold above his head until his butt hits the ground, the second his butt is ON the ground (not almost on the ground but touching the ground) you would click your clicker, then reward him with the treat.
reward him BEFORE the click-and it has zero meaning to the animal, so do it a second before the food reward is given, and you will have him associating "CLICK" with treat.
You can do this with ANY behavior, this is how trainers can teach dogs to do insane tricks like backflips, balancing on things, climbing ladders, etc.
because the sound is rewarding the very behavior he very instant it happens-"marking" it to the dogs mind making him able to pick up quicker what it is he is being rewarded for.
For larger tricks, where you cannot mark ONE specific behavior-such as retrieving, you would mark each behavior in increments, such as looking at the object, then walking towards it, then touching it, then picking it up and so on and so forth.
The reason is due to "conditioning" of the brain, the animal is taught that the distinctive "CLICK" sound will always result in food.
Which creates a positive associating when working FOR the clicker.
The concept is simple for people too, you use the clicker to mark the behavior you want.
Meaning-you ONLY click the clicker the SECOND your dog or pet does the behavior you are looking for.
NOT after they learn to on command, as that defeats the purpose of the clicker.
Lets say your trying to teach your new puppy how to sit using a clicker.
You would go about it in the same way you might without the clicker, taking a treat to hold above his head until his butt hits the ground, the second his butt is ON the ground (not almost on the ground but touching the ground) you would click your clicker, then reward him with the treat.
reward him BEFORE the click-and it has zero meaning to the animal, so do it a second before the food reward is given, and you will have him associating "CLICK" with treat.
You can do this with ANY behavior, this is how trainers can teach dogs to do insane tricks like backflips, balancing on things, climbing ladders, etc.
because the sound is rewarding the very behavior he very instant it happens-"marking" it to the dogs mind making him able to pick up quicker what it is he is being rewarded for.
For larger tricks, where you cannot mark ONE specific behavior-such as retrieving, you would mark each behavior in increments, such as looking at the object, then walking towards it, then touching it, then picking it up and so on and so forth.
Crate Training
Crate Training is a bit misunderstood to some, many people think putting a dog or a puppy in a crate is very cruel, they see the crate as a cage. This is also idea is perpetrated more when they get a new puppy, put him into the crate the first night and it cries its heart out.
A crate can become whatever you use it for.
Use it as a place to punish your dog, as in using it to put your puppy when he is misbehaving as a "time out" place, you are going to teach your dog to HATE his crate, he may run from you if he thinks your going to put him in it, he may cry the entire time hes in his crate, become frantic about getting out, harming himself in the process.
Use it as a place for your dog to have his favorite toys and chewies or dinner, and your dog is always going to associate its crate with chewing and eating, you will teach him his crate is a place to become VERY excited about, when you leave for work or to go to the supermarket, most likely you will end up with a dog who chews her bedding, the crate door, her paws.
Use the crate as ONLY a place to sleep or relax, and your going to have a dog who enjoys her crate whenever she is feeling upset, tired, anxious, nervous or just wants some time to herself to chill out.
ALL puppies will be a bit upset their first few nights sleeping in there crate, some adult dogs will cry or become upset as well.
As hard as it can be, your best bet is to completely IGNORE THEM!
Yes, its hard, yes your going to loose sleep while feeling like a complete piece of crap. You may even cry. But fear not
This is GOOD for your new dog or puppy. They are learning
"SELF SOOTHING" and "INDEPENDENCE"
It IS a necessary evil if you ever have to leave your Bully alone while you work, go to the store, go out to dinner, visit family out of town.
With Bull Terrier's it really isn't safe to leave them loose in your home, no matter how old they are and how much you trust them to not destroy anything. Bull Terriers are impulsive, and they WILL go against all training to one day decide to chew a lamp cord, break a window or eat your dirty sock and end up dead or serious ill.
NEVER LEAVE YOUR BULL TERRIER ALONE LOOSE IN YOUR HOME!
So, your probably wondering
"wait, you said I SHOULDNT give my Bullie toys or chews in his/her crate? but EVERYONE and all the books say to?"
Yes, I know they do, but think about this.
You can condition your OWN mind into feeling a certain way about things, such as your bed, a room, a house.
ever hear psychologists tell you NOT to keep a TV in your bedroom if you have trouble falling asleep?
that's because you can condition your brain to be active every time you climb into your bed.
its the same concept with dogs. Teach your dog their crate is where exciting fun things happen-and you will get a dog who's brain has trouble turning off when you want them to relax or sleep.
The way I achieve this with my own dogs is, when they first come to my home, the ONLY time they go into the crate is
-When they go to bed at night-
-when they are sleepy and ready for a nap-
-after they are done exercising-
Just make sure you let your dog out of the crate first thing after they wake up so they don't spend a long time wide awake and full of energy inside their crates, just make sure you NEVER give them a reason to cry while in there crates other then if they have to go potty in the middle of the night or you run the risk of teaching them the bad habit of letting them whenever they cry
do this for a few months and your dogs brain will be conditioned, so when you NEED to put them in the crate-even if they are not tired, they will automatically FEEL tired and go to sleep until you return!
A crate can become whatever you use it for.
Use it as a place to punish your dog, as in using it to put your puppy when he is misbehaving as a "time out" place, you are going to teach your dog to HATE his crate, he may run from you if he thinks your going to put him in it, he may cry the entire time hes in his crate, become frantic about getting out, harming himself in the process.
Use it as a place for your dog to have his favorite toys and chewies or dinner, and your dog is always going to associate its crate with chewing and eating, you will teach him his crate is a place to become VERY excited about, when you leave for work or to go to the supermarket, most likely you will end up with a dog who chews her bedding, the crate door, her paws.
Use the crate as ONLY a place to sleep or relax, and your going to have a dog who enjoys her crate whenever she is feeling upset, tired, anxious, nervous or just wants some time to herself to chill out.
ALL puppies will be a bit upset their first few nights sleeping in there crate, some adult dogs will cry or become upset as well.
As hard as it can be, your best bet is to completely IGNORE THEM!
Yes, its hard, yes your going to loose sleep while feeling like a complete piece of crap. You may even cry. But fear not
This is GOOD for your new dog or puppy. They are learning
"SELF SOOTHING" and "INDEPENDENCE"
It IS a necessary evil if you ever have to leave your Bully alone while you work, go to the store, go out to dinner, visit family out of town.
With Bull Terrier's it really isn't safe to leave them loose in your home, no matter how old they are and how much you trust them to not destroy anything. Bull Terriers are impulsive, and they WILL go against all training to one day decide to chew a lamp cord, break a window or eat your dirty sock and end up dead or serious ill.
NEVER LEAVE YOUR BULL TERRIER ALONE LOOSE IN YOUR HOME!
So, your probably wondering
"wait, you said I SHOULDNT give my Bullie toys or chews in his/her crate? but EVERYONE and all the books say to?"
Yes, I know they do, but think about this.
You can condition your OWN mind into feeling a certain way about things, such as your bed, a room, a house.
ever hear psychologists tell you NOT to keep a TV in your bedroom if you have trouble falling asleep?
that's because you can condition your brain to be active every time you climb into your bed.
its the same concept with dogs. Teach your dog their crate is where exciting fun things happen-and you will get a dog who's brain has trouble turning off when you want them to relax or sleep.
The way I achieve this with my own dogs is, when they first come to my home, the ONLY time they go into the crate is
-When they go to bed at night-
-when they are sleepy and ready for a nap-
-after they are done exercising-
Just make sure you let your dog out of the crate first thing after they wake up so they don't spend a long time wide awake and full of energy inside their crates, just make sure you NEVER give them a reason to cry while in there crates other then if they have to go potty in the middle of the night or you run the risk of teaching them the bad habit of letting them whenever they cry
do this for a few months and your dogs brain will be conditioned, so when you NEED to put them in the crate-even if they are not tired, they will automatically FEEL tired and go to sleep until you return!
Being a behaviorist with my own training style and ideas, I know that not all methods work for all dogs or all handlers, and
not all owners agree with all styles or methods of training.
Keeping that in mind, I want everyone to not feel obligated to take the advice given here-i do not know your dog, I do not
see your situation, I do not know you-therefore my advice may not work for you or your dog.
I will do my best to give options, so if you do not agree with or don’t think you can do one option, you’ll have your choice of one or two others.
I do not encourage anyone to attempt fixing any problem dealing with an aggressive dog, if your dog is showing troubling
behavior, that may frighten you-PLEASE CONTACT A BEHAVIORIST!
My first Bull Terrier came from a poor breeder, and he was a severely aggressive food guarder. I was inexperienced and tried to
take the advice of everyone over the internet-it didn’t work and was lucky I did not get seriously injured by him as many people do trying to handle these things by themselves who don’t have the knowledge. It was because of that I went and began doing
research on dog behavior and training.
And I can tell you now that, looking back- I was the reason it went from bad to worse instead of getting better-I did a lot of
stupid mistakes I thought would work but didn’t. Some of those included the famous “Alpha roll”
and constantly picking up his food bowl while he was eating and messing with his food constantly.
Simply put, I was a Dumb Ass.
I was able to sit down and look at MYSELF and what I did wrong and began building and filling in the gaps as to how to fix that problem should I ever encounter it again-of which I did several years later and within a short time was able to cure the situation 100% on a much older, much larger dog.
Now, I try to tell people to do their research into dog behavior-as oppose the JUST dog training.
If you can understand the WHY, you can figure out the HOW on your own...
not all owners agree with all styles or methods of training.
Keeping that in mind, I want everyone to not feel obligated to take the advice given here-i do not know your dog, I do not
see your situation, I do not know you-therefore my advice may not work for you or your dog.
I will do my best to give options, so if you do not agree with or don’t think you can do one option, you’ll have your choice of one or two others.
I do not encourage anyone to attempt fixing any problem dealing with an aggressive dog, if your dog is showing troubling
behavior, that may frighten you-PLEASE CONTACT A BEHAVIORIST!
My first Bull Terrier came from a poor breeder, and he was a severely aggressive food guarder. I was inexperienced and tried to
take the advice of everyone over the internet-it didn’t work and was lucky I did not get seriously injured by him as many people do trying to handle these things by themselves who don’t have the knowledge. It was because of that I went and began doing
research on dog behavior and training.
And I can tell you now that, looking back- I was the reason it went from bad to worse instead of getting better-I did a lot of
stupid mistakes I thought would work but didn’t. Some of those included the famous “Alpha roll”
and constantly picking up his food bowl while he was eating and messing with his food constantly.
Simply put, I was a Dumb Ass.
I was able to sit down and look at MYSELF and what I did wrong and began building and filling in the gaps as to how to fix that problem should I ever encounter it again-of which I did several years later and within a short time was able to cure the situation 100% on a much older, much larger dog.
Now, I try to tell people to do their research into dog behavior-as oppose the JUST dog training.
If you can understand the WHY, you can figure out the HOW on your own...